One could argue that every summer is the summer of blonde, but this summer’s particularly bright, thanks to a slew of women, from Maggie Gyllenhaal to Lauren Conrad, going platinum. Gone are beachy highlights and faded ombre in favor of white-blonde hair that looks cool—and causes serious damage. But exactly how much damage is what I wanted to know. The scoop, below.
“Going
blonde is always going to take time and it is something you never want
to rush,” says Ian Michael Black, Aveda’s Global Artistic Director for
Hair Color. “Clients who have dark hair will receive a process known as
‘double process blonde.’” An initial bleaching product removes the
hair’s natural pigment to slowly lighten the hair and once the desired
level of lightness is achieved, a toner is applied to refine the color
and create the desired tone of blond.
Obviously, going platinum is
easier if you’re already blonde; there’s a good chance you can get by
with a one-step process. “A high-lift color is applied to the hair that
creates lift and tone in one application,” says Black. But what about a
medium-to-dark brunette? For starters, don’t try this at home. L’Oreal
Professional Color Ambassador Jason Backe says, “Even going to a novice
hairdresser when it comes to a process like this can be a bit dangerous
because it takes a very deliberate application and a conscious eye to
know when to stop the processing.” You’ll also want someone to be honest
with you. “It’s up to the hairdresser to advise alternatives,
especially if your hair won’t actually do what you want without risk of
severe damage,” cautions Backe. “Sometimes, people have really
unrealistic expectations of what their hair can do, and you don’t want
to give the client something that’s going to totally wreck their hair.”
Wherever you go, ask if they have an ammonia-free version, which causes
less damage while still getting the job done.
Right. So, damage…let’s talk
about what that really means. When you color your hair, use too many hot
tools, or wear it up all the time, you’re actually damaging its
structure, which results in dry, brittle hair. Think of how powerful
bleach is around the house, or in your laundry, now imagine that on your
hair. It’s why women with platinum locks invest in super hydrating
masks and specialty shampoos—and still have dry hair (which, to be
honest, can sometimes result in awesome texture). Going to a qualified
colorist can help minimize that damage. “Hair that’s over lightened has
the texture of wet spaghetti,” says Backe. “It’s really mushy, and it
starts to stretch and stretch and then it snaps off. A colorist with
less experience won’t know what to look for.”
Another smart way to fend off damage? Go into the process with healthy hair. Work a product like Aveda’s Damage Remedy Intensive Restructuring Treatment ($35) into your weekly routine and stay away from styling tools in the month leading up to your appointment.
Before you book that appointment,
consider the price tag and time commitment. Coloring your hair is never
an inexpensive endeavor, but when you add on double or triple process,
and monthly root touch-ups (because you’ll need to go every three to
four weeks), you’re talking a lot of time and money. Once you commit to
that, you need the right products to support your newly traumatized
hair. “A shampoo and deep conditioner for damaged hair are advised,”
says Black. “Use products that are protein-based versus simply moisture
based; the protein will help restore condition and strength to the
hair.” Black advocates using Aveda Damage Remedy Restructuring Shampoo ($9) and Damage Remedy Restructuring Conditioner ($28), as well as a good leave-in conditioner, to prevent putting less stress on the hair during combing. Backe is a fan of Kerastase Fusio-Dose
in-salon treatments for treating and replenishing color-treated hair.
The good news? You can get away with shampooing about once a week, so
that makes up for some of that little time and money.
One final note: is there anyone
who shouldn’t try the platinum trend? “Yes, unfortunately, this is risky
business for women with chemically-relaxed hair. I wouldn’t mix those
two processes,” says Backe. Now if you still feel like going as blonde
as can be, at least you’re armed with all the necessary info!